| Sat. May 19 At 5:00 I put the water on to boil and
started to pack up under mostly cloudy skies and
with a little breeze making its way down into my
little bay. The rapids provided a nice backdrop
for my breakfast time. The fishermen will have to
excuse me for not taking the time to fish for the
good sized fish taking food right off the
surface. What can I say? I fish to eat and I was
not hungry for fish after last nights fish fry.
Push-off came at 6:30 and soon
shoulder muscles sore from the last 50 miles of
paddling were voicing there discomfort. Finally,
another canoeist was camped on the island site on
the east end of Carroll. In an amazingly short
time the sky cleared, my shoulders limbered up
and it is a different kind of day. The rest spot
I have chosen along Carrolls shore would
make a superb campsite for a group. It has
everything, sand beach, view of the island
studded lake, tent pads and open rock with built
in seating. It is evident that someone has camped
here in the past or at least made a fire. This is
spoiling me for the other canoe areas. There are
fish feeding here too. So far Carroll is the
nicest lake that I have been on. The trees are
older and it is all islands and small passages.
There will definitely be a trip into here from
the West side of the park sometime in the future.
I lingered a while before moving on and heading
up the creeks. A pair of Merlins and two otters
added to the pleasure of soaking up the morning
sun on the rocks.
Paddling my way
up the creeks has been tougher than the lake
travel. Two beaver dams above Carroll required me
to use a rope and pull the canoe up the sluice
ways of the dams. The first 50 meter portage was
a little hard to do because of the steepness of
the creek banks. The second 50 meter portage was
covered up by a downed spruce tree. The beavers
has a dam across the rapids which was backing the
water up enough that it was coming down the
portage trail. The situation was handled by
paddling up the shallow rapids and raising my
gear and canoe up and over a big rock to the
right of the beaver dam. A
little later I took a break at the base of a nice
falls and rapids combination. The creek has been
full of ducks and there are rails calling also.
It is a little hard not to get complacent about
the beautiful spots in here. The spot where I
took the break would be a star attraction in most
areas. Up here it is far enough off the beaten
path and not as grand as the rapids coming into
Carroll so is probably seldom seen. Navigating
the creeks presents new challenges when it comes
to keeping track of your position on the park
map. Patience seemed to be the best medicine. The
winding waterways cause you to spend a lot of
time with little progress on the map to show for
it. Using patience I was able to make my way up
the creek forks without getting out my GPS and
topo map. Finding the 150 meter portage
connecting two creeks midway between Carroll and
Terry Lakes was solved when I paddled up to the
base of a roaring rapids and there was the sought
after portage.
The creeks were flowing hard
and it was wearing me down fighting the current
and a stiff wind coming down the channels of
swamp grass that the creeks meandered around in.
Back at the MNR headquarters I had copied from
their maps the locations of some possible
campsites. As I entered a no name lake west of
Terry Lake the fire ring from one of these
campsites could be seen up on a big rock. My arms
were in need of a rest and I pulled up into a
shallow grassy area below the site. Upon
examining the site it was evident that no one had
really camped here. It was possible but you would
have had to move a lot of rotted timber aside to
put up a tent. The fire ring had not been used in
a long time either.
If you took everyone out of the
BWCAW and after 15 years went back and opened up
the portages it might come close to this area.
Campsites are lichen and moss covered, dead wood
has to be moved just to make camp and as for tent
pads, just forget it. Tent pads are easily made
by moving the dead wood aside and picking up a
few rocks but you do have to prep your own site
out here off the well used canoe trails.
The going got a lot easier
after the break. When I next entered a stream the
current was not nearly as strong as the earlier
ones. There were some stretches going East that I
could lean back and let the wind do the work. The
225 meter portage north of Terry Lake was pretty
blown in so I took some time and did some trail
clearing. When I finished there were still a lot
of logs to step over but the overhead and waist
high obstacles were gone. Most of the portages
had a small amount of debris from winter storms
on them. I would carry my pack and pail on the
first trip through so I could get around the down
wood and then with my pocket saw I would clear
the trail on my way back to get my canoe and
other pack. The change of venue was an added
advantage of the trail work.
There was a marked campsite on
Wanda Lake and that was my destination. As I
crossed the lake I could see no other likely
sites. As I approached the marked site it was
very evident. A peninsula jutting out into the
lake with a nice view from well above the water
showed it to be the obvious spot to camp. There
was a nice canoe landing spot at the bottom of
the big rock that rose from the waters edge on
the north side of the peninsula. When I peered
into the fire ring at the top of the rock I got a
surprise. Instead of black coals there was a nice
garden of mosses and small plant life. No one had
been here in a long, long time. I carefully
walked around and cleared the rocks and sticks
away from a spot for my tent. The rocky surface
was covered with a thick layer of lichen and it
was hard not to step on some of it.
The spot provided a good breeze
to keep the flys at bay. It was really hot and
the bugs were annoying. If the wind let up I did
not know what it would be like.
This whole day has been spent
traveling through some really nice country. The
last stream I was on threaded its way through a
Black Spruce Swamp. As near as I can figure I
traveled about 13 miles today with about 585
meters of portage trail.
Sunday May 20
A few rain drops fell on my
cereal this morning. At night I am able to get
some AM radio stations and they were predicting
some passing showers. Last evening I was awakened
by some noises around my camp. It was not dark
yet so I got up to have a look around. There was
a moose on the north shore of the lake but it was
too far away to have been the source of the
noise. While checking around I spotted some
caribou droppings around the campsite. I used my
binoculars to scan the area in hopes of seeing
one but had no such luck. The little brown flies
that had pestered but not bitten me earlier were
gone. I had not bothered to dress and it was
getting chilly out there in my BVDs.
At 4:05 I awoke as it just
started to brighten. I told myself that there was
no hurry this morning and next opened my eyes a
6:50. The mosquitos were bothersome until a
breeze off the lake pushed them away. When I
pushed off the rain had stopped but the clouds
sent the message that it would be back. Moving up
the creek above Wanda Lake was really slow going
. The creek really had a lot of kinks in it. The
175 meter portage above Wanda needed some of the
alders cut away so that those following me could
easily spot it. Once you were out on the bank the
animals had the portage well tramped down but
from the water there was hardly a hint as to
where it was. The suckers were bunched up against
the rapids and it looked like the bears had been
feeding there regularly.
It is Sunday and I know that
back in Illinois our Home Church will be
starting. I joined in their praise time but from
quite a distance. I knew that they would be
praying for my safety. My prayer for them was
that they might enjoy peace. It is so easy to be
at peace out here but the only true peace is
through Jesus Christ. Through him you can have
the peace you experience out here, even in the
midst of your travails. I finished my service in
thanking God for the health and opportunity to do
something like this trip.
The
creek I was on kept getting smaller every time I
passed one of the tributaries feeding it. At one
point I had to turn up one of those tributaries.
When I first saw it I thought that maybe there
was a bigger part of it over in the marsh grass.
I pushed into it with grass rubbing both sides of
the canoe and my kayak paddle only touching grass
as I paddled on. In a short ways I entered the
last lake that would drain into the Gammon River.
After the 700 meter portage into Dunston Lake I
would be going downstream into the Bloodvein
River system.
The portage over the divide is
a real walk in the park. A nice walk through a
Jack Pine forest. There is no underbrush and the
ground in carpeted in lichen. I leisurely walked
back for my remaining gear until the rain
returned and I hustled to my canoe and used it as
an umbrella for the second trip over the portage.
I felt like a fish fry so I trolled a spoon as I
headed up Dunston Lake in a pretty solid rain.
The lake is about 4 miles long with long slivers
of islands in it. As I neared the marked campsite
I was without a fish but the rain was letting up.
The marked site was pretty vulnerable to
lightning so I paddled over to a point that
looked promising. There was an old fire ring
there and it seemed to have what I needed for
features.
The lake is so pretty that I
have decided to spend the night here. I have only
traveled 5 miles but the lake is too pretty to
pass up. My tent fly was strung up as a rain
shelter for the afternoon. A Northern almost
ended up in the frying pan as I fished from camp.
He grabbed that Dardevle so many times that I
think his mouth was getting sore. When he refused
to try any more I put the canoe in the water to
fish some other spots. I caught a small Northern
after losing a number of others. My other fishing
lures did not entice anything else so I put the
Dardevle back on and trolled over toward camp
again. The rod bent back and I was very pleased
to see a nice Walleye come to the surface. A rock
ledge well away from my camp provided a nice
place to clean the fish. That way my camp stayed
fish odor free. The bears up here are no problem
yet and they wont be if we keep clean
camps.
The rain had soaked through my
worn out Goretex parka and I was getting chilled.
Back at camp I cut some wood with my pocket saw
and used a little light weight hatchet to expose
the dry wood in the center. The rain stopped long
enough for me to enjoy a good fish fry beside the
fire that dried my clothes and warmed me up. I
was very thankful for that opportunity. When the
rains returned I settled in under my rain fly
with a mug of hot tea.
The evening turned out to be
cloudy but calm and dry. No one had camped here
so once again I had to fix up a smooth place for
my tent. Another spot that is a great campsite
but has never been used.
Monday May 21
The morning is calm in this
time before the sun comes up. A loons call from
the north reverberates past me and down the lake.
The Ravens are up and some song birds. These
sounds are so tranquil compared to the goose that
flew in last night just as I was ready to doze
off. It continued to honk for the longest time.
It is 5:30 and time to paddle
on. As I sit here sipping my coffee the mist has
appeared and is rolling across the water. And
some people cannot understand why people come to
places such as this!! As I am nearing the portage
off Dunston Lake I am forced to cease paddling
and listen. A loon is calling a short ways off in
the mist and the echo is coming back stronger and
fuller than the original. Other loons out on the
main lake have now joined the concert.
The south portion of Simeon
Creek was really rocky and shallow. The current
was taking me along but braking and sharp turns
are hard on the shoulders. The northern section
of the creek was really pretty with high rock
walls on the west side. 9:00 finds me on Simeon
Lake with about 7 miles covered. Progress was
about 2 mph in the creeks and small lakes. That
was at a very easy pace too. The day is gray and
overcast with a slight breeze. When I get out in
the open I will find out if it is really a wind.
I
have stopped for lunch at the 70 meter portage on
the Bloodvein River. The wind is blowing hard
enough that I know I will not be crossing Larus
Lake which lies a few miles ahead. The travel to
here has been fairly easy. A lot of the miles
this morning have been traveled with a strong
tailwind. This gave me the opportunity to settle
back and look for wildlife. A moose and her calf
left an island when I passed by. A good reminder
to stay as far away from the islands as you can.
While I was taking a long lunch at the beautiful
rapids at the portage two men came along in a
boat to stock the woodpile that is used to cook
shore lunches. They said that sometimes there
will be four or five boats in there having lunch.
Back on Simeon Lake I had passed a trap line
cabin which was another example of the north
woods economy.
With a stiff wind from the NW I
headed for the big waters of Larus Lake. My plan
was to sneak in as close as I could and then wait
too cross in the evening or morning calm. As I
neared the lake the winds were definitely dying
down. I crossed some good sized bays on the way
to the main body to see it the water really was
getting calmed down. When I paddled out onto the
open water I paused briefly to survey the sky and
look across the lake at the distant shoreline.
The lake was still quite choppy but there were no
white caps showing. I headed to the north of an
island out in the middle of the lake so that if
things went sour I could make my way to it. All
the way to the island things went well. Once
there I could see that the wind was coming up
again but decided to head on across. I had angled
north to get above the island and that now proved
to have been a very wise move. It allowed my
travel line to the bay I needed to enter to be a
lot safer. As I headed for that bay the wind
started to really push me from the rear. The
water got rougher and the progress seemed to slow
to a crawl even though I knew that I was really
traveling fast across the water. The waves would
carry my canoe forward in great thrusts as I
surfed towards my destination. As I paddled and
prayed I thought of the disciples when they were
in rough seas. When it was over I thanked the
Lord for an invigorating but safe journey.
The
half mile portage to Murdock Lake passes many
nice rapids. The portage itself was rather nasty
with a lot of big timber down that I could do
nothing about. After I pushed off I still had to
paddle through the spot the map marks as
"small current." This was spring and it
had been raining a lot. I was just able to paddle
my way up the chute. A short ways down the lake I
saw the pictographs I had been told about.
It had been a long day and I
was looking for a good spot to camp. The first
good spot was a rock shelf in a little bay that
was protected from the wind. Camp was set up and
a quick supper eaten before heading to bed. I was
very thankful to have gotten across Larus Lake as
the wind kept picking up speed into the night. I
traveled about 25 miles from Dunston to my camp
on Murdock Lake with 1175 meters of portaging.
Tuesday May 22
I had planned on sleeping in
this morning but not that I would be forced to do
so. It started to rain early last night and is
still coming down lightly at 7:30. It alternates
from wet snow to rain. The wind is still
barreling down Murdock Lake producing big rolling
waves with whitecaps. Above the waves are white
sheets of rain and snow blowing horizontally down
the lake.
Fortunately my tent is well
protected from the wind. I will be able to open
the front and fix breakfast. But that can wait so
I crawled back into my warm sleeping bag and
dozed until 10:00. The rain had let up and I went
outside and used the 3X5 foot ground cloth from
my cook pail to make a little annex off the front
of my tent. Now I can unzip the flap and reach
into my new kitchen. It has a stove, pan of water
and built in refrigeration. It first production
of hot oatmeal and cinnamon tea are helping to
make things cozy. There are trees crashing down
but I am far enough out of the winds path that I
should be OK. The last one that went sounded
close but when I looked out I could not see it. I
scanned the trees in my area and could see that
they were not going to be a problem.
Of all my trips I have never
had to spend a day in the tent. Usually you have
so few days that you go outside and hang around
doing something. After traveling for six days and
with yesterday being a very long day I am
actually enjoying it. A little reading, a little
nap, another hot soup and tea and its past 4:00.
The sleet and snow really came down the last few
hours. I had to go out and shake it off the fly
so it would not be pushing into the tent
interior. That produced a pile of snow around the
tent about four inches high. the rocks are warm
enough from all the previous sunny days that it
only builds up on the lichen and mossy areas.
As bed time approaches things
are calming down. The birds are coming out of
their hiding places and the lake is returning to
normal. If it is like this in the morning I will
be able to travel. Just as I was ready to doze
off there was an otter snorting at me from the
water by the tent. Since I cannot tell the
difference between the snort of an otter and the
sniff of a bear I was instantly wide awake. When
I was able to get the flap open I was pleased to
see that it was just an otter displeased to have
to share his shoreline with me.
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