Mon. Sept 10^th. – 14C – By 7 am, the wind was still with us, but not as severe as during the night. Large, dark rain clouds squalled above us and the occasional sound of thunder could be heard to the south; however, as time passed, we soon acquired glimpses of sun and blue skies to the northwest.

At 10 am, we "no traced" our campsite and departed this unprotected isle – the visibility was restricted due to the fog lying on the lake. Taking the advice of the two canoeists we met the previous day, we trekked the portage (5P510) that would lead us to Cat Lake. On the inclining and twisting rocky trail, we nearly stepped on a 10" snapping turtle that seemed oblivious to us while slowly crawling to the shoreline. Stepping carefully on the rain-slicked trail, we trekked up and over a small escarpment finally reaching Cat Lake, where we noted a campsite adjacent to the portage. With an increase in the westerly wind, we paddled into its waves half way across the lake and then tacked towards our next portage – the sign was difficult to locate due to its poor exposure and the tree’s overgrowth.

The portage (6P700) to Howry Lake involved climbing over two medium escarpments that challenged our muscles - we were becoming stronger and accustomed to the terrain and our training was beginning to pay off. The rocky and forested bluffs across Howry Lake were impressive while the easterly view of the lake, with one lone island in it midst, was an ecstasy of picturesque beauty. As we were about to depart, there was an acute awareness of a westerly wind and we used the waves to our advantage as we passed between the island and the mainland. Dark clouds were quickly descending upon the lake and the cool air masses indicated that a severe storm was approaching. The white-capped waves occasionally had our canoes "riding the crest" and caution not to get trapped in a trough became our priority.

Nearing the end of the lake, Wayne and Norm H. suddenly heard John yelling that he was taking on water. As we turned towards his calls, we noticed that his canoe had taken a 180- degree turn and was now facing into the wind and white-capped waves. While we were going to their aid, John and Norm R. were able to take advantage in a momentary lull and turn their canoe around. We were very fortunate that an accident did not occur; however, safely at the portage (7P120), the thought of this incident reinforced an awareness of our vulnerability when out on the open lakes.

After crossing Gem Lake, we had to lift our canoes over three unexpected beaver dams (BD 2, 3, 4) before paddling through a serpentine channel. Each time we stepped onto the dams, we were confronted with the putrid smells from the decomposed mud. We relaxed as we paddled through the winding, lily-laden stream while enjoying the magnificent view of the rock formations along the deep vale to our left with their varying colours and sparse trees.

On the Fish Lake side of the portage (8P130), we found ourselves in a narrow inlet with very low water and slimy mud - again, we had to push and jerk ourselves out into deeper waters. Once on the lake, we sensed that the storm would soon be upon us; however, we were unable to stop if we were to reach our intended designation on Great Mountain Lake by day’s end. The wait wasn’t long before we encountered the first cracks of thunder and lightning and the waves now became a safety concern. We immediately headed for shore taking cover under our tarps against a rock ledge as we waited out the storm for the next half hour. On a positive note, the weather gave us an opportunity to rest and discuss our next strategy.

When the wind abated enough for safe paddling, we quickly crossed the lake and followed the shoreline until we located our portage (9P470) next to an abandoned, but locked trapper’s cabin. The sky was overcast and a light drizzle fell as we heaved gear and canoes onto tired shoulders and started over our portage. Moose dung was found in various locations while bear scat was nearly stepped upon along the trail – as a precaution, we made extra noise to make our presence known. We climbed up and over a medium escarpment that was either arduous or else we were beginning to tire from the day’s strain. Here, we came face to face with a bog where the water was extremely shallow and strewn with weathered tree stumps and deadhead logs, making navigation towards Great Mountain Lake even more of a challenge as well as forcing us to be on constant alert.

By 6 pm we were blessed with our intended campsite (2 Site 158) - found vacant and in an idyllic location on a rocky peninsula overlooking the entire lake. It provided us with a diversity of magnificent vistas of rugged hills and forests. Drenched from the storm and dirty from portaging, we immediately went for a swim just as the sky cleared and the sun appeared. We were content to lie back in its warmth and enjoy the tranquil setting of this wilderness haven. With camp set up, we all pitched in to cook a well-deserved supper. Individually, we would soon find out that the location of the privy was a portage in itself – an almost 200-metre incline in back of the campsite – why so far away, one could only wonder! Over supper, we were entertained by a splendid and ever-changing sunset that was surreal with rich reds, yellows and oranges silhouetted over the westerly and southerly hillsides and onto the lake and islands.

After supper, we noticed a small mouse scurrying about the campsite; later, John had to chase it out of his tent. That night, as we enjoyed the warmth of a crackling campfire, the clear sky displayed its array of stars and we couldn’t help but note that we were without rain, wind, thunder or lightning for the first time - it was one of those evenings we wished would never end. By 10 am, we were all ready for bed and classified our day as truly rewarding.